We heard the chain saws first: a buzz from a bee on amphetamines, interspersed by the crash of falling giants, then the toiling drone of the bulldozers. We were approaching the advancing edge of the Shintuya-Boca Manu-Colorado road. Our Matsigenka guide, Feliciano, from Pankotsi Lodge in the nearby village of Shipetiari, weaved us expertly through the forest. We then emerged suddenly onto the road clearing, precisely at the spot where a Caterpillar was digging up the roots of